West Bengal is a fascinating State to explore. Geographically, it is as diverse as a continent, although being relatively small. From the unending Bay of Bengal to the mighty Himalayas, you can experience it all here.
Along with this natural diversity, Bengal has been a melting pot of culture and history since time immemorial. The locational significance made it a linchpin for any empire that came and went over the course of this country’s history.
Numerous towns, ports and cities have been established on this fertile patch of land at the Eastern fringe of the Indian subcontinent. One such cultural hotspot is the city of Murshidabad, set on the eastern banks of River Hooghly.
Established by Murshid Quili Khan in 1702, Murshidabad was the capital of Bengal and the focal point of the Nawab rule. During their reign, the Nawabs grew this city into an urban centre of art, architecture, and Mughal grandeur.
Today, the city is a shadow of its former glory, most of the Mughal monuments are virtually untraceable or completely falling apart. After the defeat of Siraj Ud Daula in 1757 at Plassey, the British took over Bengal and shifted its capital to Calcutta, present day Kolkata.
But there is still so much to be seen in this long-forgotten capital of Bengal. You only need an eye for details and a rich sense of imagination. All the rubble, odd pillars, arches, and overgrown hallways are like time machines pulling you back in time when they stood tall with pride and magnificence.
Getting to Murshidabad is relatively straight forward. There are countless trains connecting the town with Kolkata, and other major cities in the State. By road it sits at around 200 km from Kolkata, which usually takes around 5 hours; give, or take a few minutes.
I would suggest planning a visit during the winter months, as summers in Murshidabad can get quite draining. While there, touring the city of Murshidabad is quite easy; just book a toto or a rickshaw. Taking a car to every single tourist spot can get quite hectic as there are narrow lanes and parking is scant at some places.
From personal experience, I would suggest taking a local guide with you. A native’s perspective adds much needed clarity to the historical grandeur of Murshidabad (and as most of the monuments on the list are half collapsed or untraceable). There are countless stories, anecdotes, and hidden gems that you will not find in your guidebook.
Now enough of the chitter chatter, let us get to business and discuss the top places that you should visit while on your stay at Murshidabad.
Hazarduari Palace
The crown jewel of this district, the Hazarduari Palace is one of the few well-maintained monuments in Murshidabad. It was the seat of the Nawabs with the throne situated at the cavernous Durbar hall. A colossal chandelier hangs from the ceiling of this great hall; a present from Queen Victoria herself.
The palace has now been turned into a museum, but a large portion of the passages and rooms are cordoned off as there is a high chance of getting lost amongst the maze of rooms, doors, and halls. So, if you are an inquisitive explorer, my advice would be to stick to the cordoned corridors and doorways.
As the name suggests, there are a thousand doorways and trust me you would not fancy yourself getting lost at doorway number nine hundred just as the museum is closing 😨.
Kath Gola
Another excellent exponent of the golden age of Murshidabad, the Kath Gola mansion and its surrounding gardens are a sight to behold. I strongly advise planning your visit here, during the evening.
The golden light of dusk makes the orange and yellow walls of the palatial property even more eye catching. Situated beside the river Bhagirathi, the palace was built by Lakshmipat Singh Duggar, a close associate of Jagat Seth; a prominent financer of Murshidabad at that time.
It is at this very palace that William Wats and Mir Jaffar formally met after the battle of Plassey in 1757. The four-story palatial house is filled with rare artefacts, exquisite artwork, and a statue of Michelangelo in the garden.
Besides Murshidabad, Kathgola played a critical part in the history of the Nawabs, acting as one of the major settlements of modern-day Bengal, Orissa, and Bihar during their reign. No Murshidabad trip is complete without a visit to this beautiful monument.
Katra Masjid
Supposedly built in 1724, the Katra masjid serves as the final resting ground of Murshid Quili Khan. At the time it was one of the largest Caravanserai (it is a place or inn where travellers can rest for the day) in the subcontinent.
An expansive architecture, with open gardens, watchtowers, and the mosque in the middle. Even though, the mosque is still in okay shape, the earthquake of 1897 destroyed three of the five domes of the masjid.
To this day, the Katra Masjid attracts the interest of public and thousands throng to the masjid grounds daily (before COVID, I mean).
Nizamat Imambara
A congregation hall for Muslims, the Nizamat Imambara was originally built by Nawab Siraj ud Daulah. But a series if ravaging fires between 1842 and 1846 destroyed most of the structure. It was rebuilt in 1847 by Nawab Mansur Ali Khan.
Built opposite to the Hazarduari Palace, the new Imambara is situated right on the banks of river Bhagirathi. Originally designed to represent Mecca, so that the poorer section of the Muslim community could experience Haj.
The structure is colossal and almost 600 feet in length. The Mughal styled design and the while walls makes for a photo perfect scene in broad daylight. It is a spot you should not miss.
There are thousands of more spots, monuments and artifacts that are not on this list. But I will say this, Murshidabad is a city whose history is slowly being wiped out and an organised effort must be made before this once glorias capital of Bengal fades out under the pressure of time, nature, and unplanned urbanisation.
So, once this pandemic is over, free up a weekend and go on a treasure hunt through obscure history in this fascinating town at the North eastern part of India. Until then, stay safe 😀 !
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