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Writer's pictureKaustav

Darjeeling: A Short Memoir about the Heart of North Bengal

Darjeeling is a hill station that is much more than just a tourist magnet. It is a collection of emotions, rustic charm, and history. Originally, a part of the Sikkimese kingdom, Darjeeling’s inception dates to the early 1700s. Fast forward to today, it is now a bustling, and dare I say, bursting hill town with a steady onslaught of tourists year-round.


Being an intricate part of the East India Company, Darjeeling still carries the fingerprints of British India. From Victorian architecture to the still operational Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, Darjeeling is a living museum, a time machine into the past.



Apart from the innumerable historical marvels, the hill station is surrounded by some of the most picturesque vistas of the Himalayas. Mount Kanchenjunga is usually visible from almost any alley, rooftop, hotel room, etc. provided it’s a clear, sunny day.


But, due to the constant influx of people, commerce, and business, the main town of Darjeeling is no longer a peaceful hill station. Instead, it is now a mixing pot of people, buses, jeeps, blaring horns, pollution, and garbage. So, nature lovers who are seeking an escape from the din of city life, taking accommodation in the middle of Darjeeling will feel like jumping from a hot frying pan into another smaller, but hotter pan.


Over the years, Darjeeling, like any other city has constantly expanded to accommodate an ever-increasing population. So, new localities, and neighbourhoods have popped up right outside the main town. These are well connected by road but are isolated with a generous dose of greenery and tranquillity.


One such place is the charming locality of Singamari. Located a few kilometres from the city center, it is a quiet pocket of trees, with open views of the surrounding mountains, minus the constant honking of traffic.


Coming to accommodation, Singamari is home to one of the best homestays in Darjeeling, which goes by the name of Little Singamari Homestay. It is located on Lebong Cart Road and is a sprawling property of flower gardens, prayer flags, sparklingly clean rooms, and the most hospitable hosts you can imagine.


The rooms are spacious with a touch of Tibetan home décor which induces a certain sense of calm just as you cross over the threshold. Each room comes with open verandas overlooking the hills, valleys, tea estates, and the main city of Darjeeling. Trust me, the sunrise and sunset are an epic spectacle from here.



Little Singamari Homestay sits right beside St. Joseph’s College, which is why it is cut off from the din and bustle of the main road. The hosts are a soft-spoken and caring family with a certain aura of Buddhist equanimity.


From the moment you walk into their property, you are treated like an old family member who is coming to visit after a long hiatus. The food is simple, delicious, and healthy, which is not a surprise as the locals are generally very fit.


There is fantastic Wi-Fi connectivity in all the guest rooms and the internet speed is stable and decent. This is an important feature to have after the whole Work from Home revolution. Today many of us, like myself, usually work remotely. So, mountain-loving worker ants can set up base here for a few days without any friction.



Although Little Singamari Homestay is situated far from Darjeeling city center, it is not completely isolated from accessible transportation. You can get hold of share taxis, trekker jeeps, and cars from the main road right in front of the homestay. There is a taxi stand a few hundred meters from the homestay. This will help you in exploring the hills and mountains around the Darjeeling district easily.


Exploring Darjeeling and its surrounding is a joyful experience as it is one of the most vibrant, picturesque, and traveler-friendly stretches of the Himalayas. You can witness the thrill of driving through clouded pine forests, stopping at misty monasteries, standing at the edge of steep tea gardens, and witnessing the panoramic Kanchenjunga range at every clearing on the road.


But a few key spots are a must for any person visiting this Himalayan gem. And these are,


  • Darjeeling Himalayan Railway

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is a moving piece of history. It is one of the last true, steam-powered locomotives still in its true operational state today. Presently, a UNESCO World Heritage member, this railway system was once the main artery of the British establishment in the mountains. It huffed and puffed people, goods, and during WWII, soldiers to the higher Himalayas.


Taking a ride from Darjeeling to Ghoom station is like rolling back to a time of no cars, buses, and metalled roads. On the way, you will see the photogenic Batasia Loop encircling the beautiful war memorial.



It’s not the most comfortable ride, with a 120-year-old aging steam engine wheezing and pulling a couple of coaches up the steep Darjeeling roads. But that is what’s so unique about it. The loud sound and irregular jerks are what give it character, almost like a personality.

A grumpy, old grandmother, taking her rambunctious grandsons and granddaughters to the park.

  • Peace Pagoda, Darjeeling

Opened in 1992, the Peace Pagoda is one of the shrines built across the world to promote world peace and bring unity among all races. The monument is a true embodiment of peace and once you visit, you will keep coming back to it.


Set on the upper ridges of Darjeeling, the Peace Pagoda is situated in a heavily forested area with towering pine trees encircling the complex. It is considerably higher than Darjeeling and offers some of the city’s best views with the Kanchenjunga Mountain range lining the horizon.



The main structure is a sparkling white stupa with four golden statues of Buddha depicting his four avatars. People of all religions and social fabrics visit this unifying peace monument and you should put it on the list for your next Darjeeling visit.

  • Himalayan Mountaineering Institute and Darjeeling Zoological Park

The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute is a name steeped in mountaineering folklore. Established in 1954 by the then Prime Minister Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru and mountaineering legend Tenzing Norgay, it is the premier training institution for budding mountain explorers. There are a lot of fun-filled activities for adventure junkies like indoor wall climbing, rope traverse, actual rock climbing excursions, etc.


Now, the mountaineering institute and the museum are situated within Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park, which is another wonder of Darjeeling. Spanning nearly 70 acres, the Darjeeling Zoological Park houses some of the rarest fauna of the Himalayas.



It is home to the rare red panda, which is the zoo’s primary attraction. You will also get to witness the elusive snow leopard and its close cousins, the Royal Bengal Tiger, and the black panther. So, don’t forget to take a trip on the wild side when you visit this diverse patch of real estate. But as always, respect the animals and try not to disturb them to the best of your abilities.

  • Mall Road, Darjeeling

I guess no Darjeeling trip is complete without taking a stroll up Nehru Road and into the heart of the hill station, the Mall. It is a gigantic courtyard with seats lining its edges, where tourists lounge in the Sun and take in the views of the surrounding mountains.



The mall and the road leading up to it are framed by shops on either side that are older than most football teams in the Premier League. There is everything, from elaborate eateries like the Glenary’s to century-old photography studios like the Das Studio. It doesn’t matter what your taste is, you will find something that grabs your attention here.


Darjeeling is a place that cannot be summarised in a blog post, it is something that you explore with your eyes and feet. So, take time out of your busy schedule and dedicate a few days to this gem of a hill station. And don’t forget to check out the beautiful Little Singamari Homestay, trust me, once you stay there, you will come back again.


Homestay Details:


Contact Number: 09832543590


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